Champagne Bollinger's iconic and extremely rare 'Vieilles Vignes Françaises' (VVF) cuvée, produced from ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines in the Clos Saint-Jacques plot in Aÿ, faces an uncertain future. The primary threats are climate change and the increasing prevalence of vine diseases like flavescence dorée, a fatal bacterial infection spread by leafhoppers.
The plot, which survived the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century, contains Pinot Noir vines planted on their own roots. This makes them uniquely vulnerable, as most modern vineyards use American rootstock grafts for disease resistance. Warmer temperatures and erratic weather patterns are stressing these ancient vines, while diseases pose a constant, escalating risk.
Bollinger produces only a few thousand bottles of VVF in exceptional vintages, with the 2015 release being the most recent. The house has confirmed there is no 2016 vintage, and the viability of future releases is not guaranteed. The potential loss of this plot would mark the end of a living historical artifact and a singular style of Champagne.
While Bollinger's broader portfolio remains secure, the situation highlights the specific vulnerabilities of heritage vineyards in the face of modern agricultural and environmental challenges. The house continues meticulous work to preserve the plot, but its long-term survival is not assured.
